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Author Topic: Hornady® Critical Duty 10mm  (Read 10421 times)

Nightcrawler

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Re: Hornady® Critical Duty 10mm
« Reply #25 on: December 03, 2013, 10:44:12 pm »
I don't like watered down ammo in .357, so I can see how it'd be irritating in the 10mm crowd. 

Typical factory 158 grain .357 loads (158s being one of the better all-around bullets for .357 in my opinion) leave the muzzle at a piddling 1150 to 1250 feet per second.  Worse, the factory muzzle velocity is often given for a 6" or 8" test barrel, instead of the 1-7/8"-4" barrels they're typically employed in.  A watered down .357 Magnum out of a snubby barrel is a lot of flash and bang for 9mm +P+ ballistics (admittedly, this would be 9mm from a full-length barrel).

158 grains at 1150 FPS?  Cripes, a .40 S&W can do that.

http://ballistics101.com/357_magnum.php

http://ballistics101.com/40_caliber_sw.php

I get why they do this. Old revolvers, particularly S&W K-Frames, can't handle a steady diet of full house magnums.  Plus, most shooters don't like the noise and recoil, understandably (made worse by the fact that for years, revolvers shipped with uncomfortable grips that didn't protect your knuckle from recoil).

I consider a "real" .357 load to be a 158 grain JHP at 1400 or so FPS from a 4" tube, as loaded by DoubleTap and Buffalo Bore.  A proper 125 grain load should leave the barrel at 1600 FPS or so.  If you're going to bother with the weight and bulk of a .357 Magnum revolver, and when you only have five to seven shots generally, you really ought to make them count.  The 158s make a great "general purpose" load.  The 125s are probably what I'd want for packing in in town, less risk of overpenetration. Heavier bullets are generally hunting rounds.

The downside to full power loads is, of course, recoil.  The Buffalo Bores aren't bad out of my GP100.  They're pretty sporty out of the SP101, but are still manageable.  I don't know that I'd pack them in anything lighter than that.  Buffalo Bore makes lower-recoil, short barrel ammo for snubbies, but from the ballistics tables they give for it, I'm not sure that it's worth buying over any other maker's ammunition (which is cheaper and easier to find and pushes the slugs to the same velocities).

The nice thing about 10mm is, like .357 Magnum, you have a very wide ballistic envelope, giving you a range of loads.  The downside is, like .357 Magnum, full-power ammo is only available from a handful of boutique ammunition makers. Alas, it's the price you pay for being awesome.

Ironically, in .44 Mags (which I carried for years), I prefer the watered-down ammo for self-defense purposes. There's a point of diminishing returns in hot-loading a handgun round, and most of the hunting loads (which most .44 loads are) were designed with game animals, taken at range, in mind.  I like a 240 grain slug at around 1000-1250 FPS.  Yes, you can duplicate the lower end of this with .44 Special, but .44 Special is harder to find and more expensive than Magnum.  I carried Federal Hydra-Shoks for a long time, as well as Winchester Silvertips and even the light Cor-Bon 165 grain loads.  I used Silver Safety Slugs for apartment defense, when I lived in an apartment.

Now?  I don't pack the Redhawk around much.  I've got a baggy full of various assorted .44 Magnum JHP ammo.  I think the bullets are XTPs. It's not hot loaded, feels middle of the road.  I got it at a gun show a few years ago.  Eventually I'll shoot it up and get new stuff, I suppose.

With .44 Magnum, there really aren't a lot of bad loads.  I mean, even a 240 grain LSWC chugging along at 1100 FPS is still going to ruin somebody's day. 

http://www.brassfetcher.com/index_files/44Magnum.htm



This load is hotter than I prefer, and obviously overpenetrates. But man, that'll put a hurting on you.

Back on topic, 10mm ain't too shabby neither.

http://www.brassfetcher.com/index_files/10mmAuto.htm

« Last Edit: December 03, 2013, 10:55:37 pm by Nightcrawler »
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