Author Topic: The 10/22 Spencer Carbine Project (Read 17579 times)

TINCANBANDIT · « **on:** February 12, 2016, 01:21:59 pm »

I saw this cool "tribute" gun on another forum, (http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230598#)

I thought I would enjoy attempting to build one of these myself.

so the idea is to recreate the look of the cavalry carbines of the late 19th century

The Spencer

The Sharps

The Springfield Trapdoor

Key elements:
semi-crescent butt plate - Ruger 10/22 already has
short barrel - ditto
barrel band - ditto
straight grip - we can modify
tapered forend - we can modify
saddle ring - we will add
slings - we will add

WeTheArmed.com

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #1 on:** February 12, 2016, 01:31:07 pm »

So I began searching for an affordable 10/22

didn't take long and I was able to score a 2013 vintage 10/22 for a very reasonable price, and it came with an extra stock!

stay tuned, in the coming weeks I will post updates as I go along

Grant · « **Reply #2 on:** February 12, 2016, 01:51:12 pm »

That's awesome. I love my 10-22. Everyone should have one.

MTK20 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 12, 2016, 02:54:18 pm »

I've always wanted a Spencer. This is beyond cool

.

JesseL · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2016, 03:03:40 pm »

What a cool idea!

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #5 on:** February 13, 2016, 03:36:59 pm »

The first step is collecting the necessary parts. I have the gun and the stock (which is made of either maple or birch)

I found this set of slings from a Enfield No.1 Mk3, I'll modify the front one to fit the Rugers barrel band and the rear will get inletted into the butt stock

I bought this handmade 1" leather sling on ebay.

I didn't care for the sliver Chicago bolts, so I bought some brass ones

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #6 on:** February 13, 2016, 03:42:33 pm »

I was planning on building a custom saddle ring, but I was lucky enough to pick up this one from a Krag-Jorgensen Carbine

I went shopping on the Bolt Depot and picked up some oval head screws for the butt plate, saddle ring and rear sling

I also found this rear sight, I think it's from a Winchester .22 (model 67??)

The guy who inspired this build installed an extended mag release, because it sort of resembles the lever used to open the action of some of the old carbines, so I got one too

coelacanth · « **Reply #7 on:** February 14, 2016, 11:59:15 am »

I like the concept.

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #8 on:** February 15, 2016, 09:52:45 am »

I decided to use this stock for this project, it was the ugliest of the 5 that I had collected.

Notice the splotchy finish, both birch & maple are notorious for resisting stain (which will make refinishing a challenge).

I removed the butt plate (to prevent it from getting scratched) and mounted the stock in my vice. Time to start making saw dust

The first task is to remove the pistol grip with a wood saw

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #9 on:** February 15, 2016, 10:00:43 am »

Using a straight edge we can see that we have a lot of material to remove.

We'll need to remove some from the sides as well

progress

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #10 on:** February 15, 2016, 10:04:42 am »

After much rasping, filing and sanding we have it close, the tape is for the modification to the fore end

I then cut flutes in the front of the comb, I may remove a little more material in front of the comb to accentuate it more

lesptr · « **Reply #11 on:** February 15, 2016, 01:54:14 pm »

Tagged for interest.

dot4x4 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 16, 2016, 12:27:03 am »

looking good

Gabrielus · « **Reply #13 on:** February 16, 2016, 01:43:15 am »

I'd give anything for a modern day .22 LR Martini-Henry, even a custom build.

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #14 on:** February 19, 2016, 12:21:26 pm »

Thanks for the comments! here is some more work I got done on the stock

Following Hipshot's instructions I start on the fore end by marking a line and then cutting the line in with a fine tooth saw

I then start rasping, filing and sanding

The final cut is made with a wood chisel

Almost fits perfect, we'll clean it up a bit more and then taper the end considerably

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #15 on:** February 27, 2016, 01:17:26 pm »

Now we mark a line to start changing the taper to the rear of the barrel band

Some rough guidelines, don't worry, I am not removing all of the material outside of the lines, I am just using the lines to remind me not to remove too much inside the lines.

I started with the rasp

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #16 on:** February 27, 2016, 01:27:29 pm »

Then went to the file

Then I started on the nose, I drew a line and began tapering the fore tip

but I forgot I wanted to shorten it, so I cut 1" off the end and trued it up with my disc sander

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #17 on:** February 27, 2016, 01:32:51 pm »

Then I worked the nose, tapering it and rounding the edges

coelacanth · « **Reply #18 on:** February 27, 2016, 04:43:49 pm »

Looks good. Have you decided how the wood is to be finished?

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #19 on:** February 29, 2016, 07:28:16 pm »

Quote from: coelacanth on February 27, 2016, 04:43:49 pm

Looks good. Have you decided how the wood is to be finished?

yep, I am using some dark brown leather dye, followed by Minwax Antique Oil Finish

coelacanth · « **Reply #20 on:** February 29, 2016, 09:40:22 pm »

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #21 on:** March 02, 2016, 09:01:27 pm »

Here is a picture of the stock next to an unmodified one, it appears to be a lot shorter, even though we only removed 1 inch

Mikee5star · « **Reply #22 on:** March 02, 2016, 11:34:31 pm »

Have you weighed it? I am curious to know how much weight you took out of the stock.

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #23 on:** March 03, 2016, 09:21:06 am »

Quote from: Mikee5star on March 02, 2016, 11:34:31 pm

Have you weighed it? I am curious to know how much weight you took out of the stock.

nope, but that is a good idea, I'll do that today

TINCANBANDIT · « **Reply #24 on:** March 03, 2016, 09:21:15 am »

The brass screw heads were a little bigger that the factory butt stock screws, so I opened up the holes a bit