Everyone seems to have their pet gun finish. On a lot of guns, my preference is krylon laugh However, I do have a definite appreciation for the corrosion resistance and durability of more permanent spray on finishes.

Could we have a reasonable discussion (no "I like this because it is better" B.S.) on the pros and cons of the mainstream firearm finishes, such as Ceracoat, Duracoat, Armorcoat, etc...

Also, can you spray one type of finish over another? For instance, Ceracoat on a Springfield 1911 that already has Armorcoat? Is Springfield's Armorcoat just their name for another popular finish, such as Duracoat? If I wanted to get parts finished to match a Springfield, would I have to send them to Springfield for Armorcoat finishing?

I have used Brownell's Alumahyde II, and I would NOT recommend it to a friend.

Standard de-greasing is required, which is no big deal. I used brake cleaner on an AR lower, and Daniel Defense 7.0 Lite Rail. The plastic stock got a wipe-down with rubbing alcohol.

The stuff comes in a spray can, which is very convenient. I sprayed each piece as recommended then hung them in the garage to cure. Summer in Texas provided just about perfect conditions (90F, low humidity) for the stuff to cure, but it still took over a week before it was impervious to my thumb nail. Even now, a few months later, there are a few blemishes that have occured after curing. Not the most durable.

For $15, it's not bad, but next time I paint a gun, I'm going to do it right...or ship it out.

I am thinking about getting my Delta Elite refinished.
It has an idiot scratch on it... NOT caused by me, that ruffles my feathers any time I look at it.
I want it to retain a fairly stock look, but with improved durability.
I find myself pondering a melonite type finish on the frame and a black chrome on the slide.
Decisions decisions...


Jim

I like a good tenifer/melonite type treatment followed by a good baked on coating, both done by professionals and not home shopped.

If not that, parkarizing followed by duracoating is also good, I think.

I don't care one whit for bluing...it's a pretty but weak finish.

I like a good tenifer/melonite type treatment followed by a good baked on coating, both done by professionals and not home shopped.

I was at a local "shop" recently, they had they have the same setup I have in my garage shop, an decent airbrush and compressor and an old oven.....

I'll take the quality that comes from my own hands, rather than giving it to some other guy that uses the same equipment.

Just a little FYI.

1 Melonite, Tenifer , Nitron are all salt bath nitrides. They are not finishes but case hardening treatments. So your gun can and will rust IF you do not maintain it. Part of the QPQ process turns the metal a black color. The true meaning behind salt bath nitrides is to offer .0003-.0005 of case hardening to the material it is being applied to. So if you remove the black color to a melonite , tenifer or nitron gun, you have NOT removed the case hardening.

2 Coatings offer more of a corrosion resistance in most cases because they seal the surface. Yes they can ship, scratch or wear over time, just as your factory finishes will. We use KG Gunkote and Cerakote ( though we are phasing out Cerakote to strictly use KG Gunkote as a better more durable product ). I have been refinishing firearms as a business for awhile now and we average around 750-1000 firearm projects a year we work on. I have tried ALOT of the available coatings and have found what I like and ones I don't. I have several youtube test videos on my website of dipping them in acid, torches, machining etc. The bottom line.... they all wear. Some last longer then others. They all have pros and cons.

3 MWcolburn, Black Chrome ( black nickel also ) is very inconsistant. I can answer some questions on that for you as I used to do it, but dropped it as a finish offering due to problems with tank setups. Here is a picture of one of the black chrome slides we did quite some time ago.



The absolute bottom line..... all finishes wear. There isn't a single finish available that will not wear. They all do. Again as stated, some wear faster then others. Some are more corrosion resistant then others. But they all will wear over time.

Kydex holsters kill finishes. As does a dirty leather holster. Maintenance is the key to making any finish survive.

Thanks
Todd

That would look great on my AK!

I have been to an industrial nitriding operation.  It is definitely not something I would want to try putting in a garage or the back of a small gun shop.

I've heard all of the issues with black chrome and black nickel before, but there isnt a finish that I have found that is so damn pretty. Could you imagine a pair of 10mm 1911's with black nickel and pearl grips

I ve done it ( 1911's ) and yes very pretty. But when you have to price / cost it out and it runs $1000-1500 to do it and break even or make a small profit and I can do regular nickel plate for $350 and make a profit, then its not feasible ( for me atleast ).

It is very awesome when your done though.

Who knows, now that my new shop is finally settling in, maybe I ll start up a new tank and try and get her going again....

Thanks
Todd

Something I've been considering is trying to see what hematite, or some similar material might be used as a pigmenting agent in a clear guncoat, Getting the stone down to a small enough diameter to allow to work would be the challenge... I dont know I experiment a lot so I guess we will see what can be done.

So was the switch to Gunkote brought on by cost? Everything I have read has shown Cerakote to be superior in wear resistance and lubricity.